If you’ve started shopping for replacement windows, you’ve probably noticed something annoying: almost nobody will tell you what they cost. You fill out a form, someone calls you, a rep comes to your house, stays for two hours, and the number you finally hear depends on, well, a lot of things that have nothing to do with the window.
We think that’s a broken way to sell windows. So here are real numbers.
Every price on this page came out of our online configurator, which runs on the actual Vytex factory price book. We pulled them in September 2026. Nothing here is a “starting at” teaser rate, and nothing is rounded to make a point. If you open the configurator and build the same window, you’ll see the same number.
The short answer
For a standard-size vinyl double-hung (roughly 32″ wide by 54″ tall), you’re looking at $565 to $777 per window, depending on the series. That’s the window itself, delivered. Professional installation is quoted separately, and plenty of our customers skip it and hand the job to their own contractor.
| Series | Tier | 32″ × 54″ double-hung |
|---|---|---|
| Georgetown Elite 8700 | Value | $565 |
| Fortis 5200 | Mid-range | $721 |
| Potomac-HP 6200 | Flagship | $777 |
Those are white-on-white with the standard Energy Saver Plus glass package, which is dual-pane Low-E with argon fill.
Every window style, priced
Double-hungs are the most common replacement, but they’re not the only thing people buy. Here’s the rest of the lineup at a typical size for each style. Same conditions: white, standard glass, no grids.
| Style | Size priced | Georgetown | Fortis | Potomac-HP |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Double-hung | 32″ × 54″ | $565 | $721 | $777 |
| Slider, 2-lite | 60″ × 36″ | $571 | $726 | $783 |
| Slider, 3-lite | 84″ × 48″ | $1,940 | $2,432 | $2,785 |
| Picture | 60″ × 48″ | $639 | $814 | $878 |
Casements, awnings and hoppers are built on their own lines, so they don’t split across the three series the way the others do. One price each:
| Style | Size priced | Series | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Casement | 24″ × 48″ | Vytex 3300 | $979 |
| Double casement | 48″ × 54″ | Vytex 3300 | $1,917 |
| Awning | 36″ × 24″ | Vytex 3300 | $955 |
| Hopper | 32″ × 24″ | Fortis | $618 |
Two things surprise people here. Casements cost more than double-hungs at a smaller size, because the crank hardware and the multi-point lock are genuinely more machine than a pair of sliding sashes. And a 3-lite slider is roughly three times a 2-lite, because it is, more or less, three windows in one frame.
What the upgrades actually cost
This is where quotes diverge, and where most companies get vague. Here’s every common option priced against the same baseline: a Fortis double-hung, 32″ by 54″, white, standard glass, at $721.
| Option | Adds | Running total |
|---|---|---|
| Triple Silver glass | +$23 | $743 |
| R5 glass | +$68 | $788 |
| Flat colonial grids | +$69 | $789 |
| Contoured colonial grids | +$84 | $805 |
| FlexScreen with VyClear mesh | +$93 | $814 |
| Privacy (obscure) glass | +$98 | $819 |
| Beige exterior | +$108 | $829 |
| Brushed chrome, bronze or black lock | +$206 | $926 |
| Energy Saver Max, triple-pane | +$411 | $1,131 |
| Tempered safety glass | +$556 | $1,277 |
| Simulated divided lite (SDL) grids | +$711 | $1,431 |
A few of those deserve a note.
R5 glass costs $68 and is the best value on the list. It gets you close to triple-pane insulation without the weight or the $411. If you only upgrade one thing, upgrade this.
Tempered glass isn’t optional where code requires it. Within 24 inches of a door, less than 18 inches off the floor, near a tub or shower, or on a stairway, you need it. It’s priced by the square foot on both sashes, which is why it lands at $556 on a window this size. Budget for it on the specific openings that need it, not the whole house.
SDL grids are a design decision, not a performance one. At $711 they’re the most expensive option we sell. They look like true divided lites because the bars are bonded to both glass surfaces. Flat or contoured grids sit between the panes and cost under $85.
Premium exterior finishes are their own category, and they only come on the Potomac-HP, the 3300 casement line, and the Signature door. Against a $777 Potomac-HP double-hung:
| Finish | Adds | Total |
|---|---|---|
| Black exterior laminate | +$350 | $1,127 |
| Cherry woodgrain interior | +$218 | $995 |
Black adds about 45 percent. That’s not us being dramatic, that’s what premium exterior finishes cost from every manufacturer right now. Black is having a moment and the factories know it.
What a whole house runs
Most houses in our area have between 8 and 15 windows. Here’s the material cost for standard 32″ by 54″ double-hungs in white, before any upgrades.
| Windows | Georgetown | Fortis | Potomac-HP |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | $4,521 | $5,764 | $6,217 |
| 10 | $5,651 | $7,206 | $7,771 |
| 12 | $6,782 | $8,647 | $9,325 |
| 15 | $8,477 | $10,808 | $11,656 |
Real houses aren’t all one size, so treat these as the anchor and adjust. A typical ten-window job in the Fortis series with grids on the front elevation and tempered glass beside the back door lands somewhere around $8,000 to $8,500 in materials.
Not every window has to be the same series, either. Plenty of customers put the Potomac-HP on the exposed west face and the Georgetown Elite on the shaded side. The configurator prices each window separately, so mixing costs you nothing in complexity.
Patio doors
Sliding doors are priced by opening size rather than by the inch. White, standard glass:
| Opening | 7000 Series | Signature 8200 |
|---|---|---|
| 5 foot, 2 panel | $2,360 | $2,687 |
| 6 foot, 2 panel | $2,566 | $3,131 |
| 8 foot, 2 panel | $3,181 | $3,629 |
| 9 foot, 3 panel | Not available | $4,697 |
The gap between the two lines is about $330 at five feet and roughly $450 at eight. If you want the stainless multi-point lock, the foam-filled frame or built-in blinds, that’s what they cost. We put the full comparison side by side if you’re deciding.
What about installation?
Installation is the part we can’t put a flat number on, and anyone who does is guessing. A first-floor window swap into a sound frame is a very different job than a third-floor unit over a sunroom roof with rotten trim underneath.
When you request installation through us, the crews at Hallmark Windows & Siding, who install Vytex windows every working day, look at your specific project and quote it straight. No coupon games, no “sign tonight and I’ll knock off 40 percent.” What moves an install quote is the frame material and condition, the floor level, trim requirements, and how many openings you’re doing at once.
If you’d rather handle it yourself, we wrote an honest take on DIY versus hiring a pro, including the jobs we’d tell you not to attempt.
Why window pricing feels so murky everywhere else
A few reasons, none of them flattering to the industry:
The in-home sales model is expensive. Commissioned reps, lead-generation costs, financing kickbacks. That overhead lands in your quote. It’s not unusual for the same physical window to be quoted at wildly different prices to two neighbors, based mostly on what the rep thinks each will pay.
“Starting at $189!” is doing a lot of work. That price usually describes a tiny builder-grade window nobody actually orders, bare, uninstalled, in one color. It exists to get a rep into your living room.
Custom sizing spooks people into overpaying. Every replacement window is made to order, and yours will be built to the eighth of an inch. Some companies use “custom” to justify mystery pricing. The factory prices custom sizes off a straightforward size chart, and so do we.
How to get your actual number
Grab a tape measure, spend five minutes with our measuring guide, then build your window in the configurator. The price updates as you pick options. No name, no email, no phone number required to see it.
If you’re still deciding between series, the Fortis versus Potomac-HP comparison and the Fortis versus Georgetown Elite comparison break down what the extra money buys.
And if the total makes you wince: we offer 12-month zero-interest financing for qualified buyers, which a lot of homeowners use to spread a whole-house project across a year without paying interest.
One more honest note. If your windows are 30 years old but the seals are good, the sashes operate, and your heating bills haven’t budged, you might not need new windows yet. We wrote about how to tell the difference, because we’d rather you replace windows once, at the right time, than twice.
Curious what your windows would cost?
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